Sunday, June 21, 2015

Now I can tell the whole truth

I am back home. The flight from Shanghai to SFO was good once we managed to get the boarding passes. Our flight was on China Eastern, operated by Delta. After standing in the line for 45 minutes, we were told that we needed to go the terminal 2 and after running to terminal 2 we were told to go back to terminal 1 at the Delta counter. Long story short, thanks to my paranoia of getting to the airport early, we were able to get to the gate in time and got plenty of morning exercise done. Moral of the story: Get to the airport early and do some shopping if you have extra time to kill.

After landing in SFO, first thing we noticed  is that there are no people:) Everything looks empty and is very quiet. The sky is blue, air is cool and dry. At home Shalini was waiting with warm smile. So, all is good , all of us are back and are healthy.

Google stuff works miraculously : Gmail, facebook, youtube, my blog,  all works. In China Google is blocked and my Yahoo account was hacked twice. I was afraid to say or post anything negative because I knew my account was being monitored.

Everything I wrote from China is what I saw and how I felt but it was not the whole truth. I could not say anything negative or post any sensitive pictures.  We all know there is a heavy censorship on what you can say and post but in general, we were able to roam around freely and without any guide. It has come a long ways in last 20 years. People of my generation talk bitterly about the cultural revolution and lost years of their youth, but young people have no idea of how it was.

Tibet is whole another story. I felt it was a prison for the Tibetans in their own land.  It is almost like Palestine/ Israel situation except no one cares about Tibetans, so they can not fight back.  There were Chinese military, police , plain clothed police and checkpoints everywhere. Every street and corner had cameras and most roof tops had security forces sitting with guns and binoculars. To enter the downtown area, everyone had to go thought a x- ray screening of bags and there was very heavy police presence in the area. We were followed more than once by the security person. Whenever we travelled on the road outside Lhasa, there were security checkpoints every 20 to 30 kilometers.  Our passports and "permit" were checked at least 50 times if not more. 
There were convoys of 50 to 70 military vehicles travelling all over Tibet and the soldiers , in groups of 10 to 20 ( in their uniforms and guns) marched in downtown Lhasa at all different times of the day.
Another interesting part is that , there are numerous multi story buildings all around the big cities in Tibet. Most of these are empty or under construction ( and are out of place) . I am not sure what is the plan for these but Tibetans do not like to live in high rises. They live in the small one story house with a courtyard where they keep their animals. May be the government is planning to bring in people from other provinces to "dilute" the ethnicity of Tibet.  
Another interesting fact is that the "Panchen Dalai Lama ( one below the Dalai Lama) is being "educated" in Beijing and will return after his "full education". 

It is very sad to see the people imprisoned in their own land. They have been living in harmony with the local animals and nature  for over 20,000 years and to see the systemic cleansing is  heartbreaking.

I think, if more of us go there, support the local people by giving them the tourist business and just making others aware of the situation, may be chinese government may see the value in letting them be what they are : humble, polite, simple and very spiritual people who have been living in this wonderful and harsh land for generations.

China is blessed with amazing natural beauty and the government has done a great job in providing the infrastructure to make the nature accessible. It has come a long way in last 30 years but it has long way to go to accept the diversity.and freedom ( But, just look at ourselves, we are just as bad )
This is the official end of this adventure. Please feel free to comment or ask any question.  Good night from Los Altos ,CA

 Security in Lhasa ( on the roof and on the ground )

 We were followed by the security forces here ( may be because we came every day)
 Convoy of military vehicles

Security check points

Saturday, June 20, 2015

Morning Stroll in Shanghai, Expat living and friend’s hospitality

On our last day in China, Jagdish and I went out for a morning walk without any helper. Greenie was sick and resting for the long trip home.

        
Morning haircut on Nanjing Rd       Tao-Chi-Gong on Nanjing road

       
Nanjing road in the morning                     Getting ready for a film shoot

       
Arranging the flower wall in morning      BUND in morning fog

Nanjing road in the morning is a different road than the one in the evenings. We walked through several groups of people doing Tao-chi-gong, Tai-Chi and other forms of movements. We witnessed free hair cutting for seniors, street cleaning and manicuring the plants and gardens. The weather was perfect and the street very peaceful.

        
Nanjing Road (morning)                       Apartment Complexes (mini city)

Back at the hotel, Michelle sent the driver to bring us to her home and we got to see how upper-middle class and Ex-Pats live in Shanghai. These are multistory complexes (15-20 floors), gated communities and are cities in and of themselves. They have gardens, entertainment and sports and the market is just down the street. The square footage of the apt. is small compared to American homes, but the space in very well designed and well lighted. No vehicles are allowed inside the compounds, so kids run around freely. Michelle’s complex is almost 1 sq. mile of area.

Lunch was another huge banquet in a private dinning hall given by Michelle’s family. Her parents, uncles and aunts were all there. We feel so blessed to have family and friends in this part of the world.

      
Michelle, Angie and Michelle’s parents                         

   
Nanjing road at night

After packing a little, we went out for our evening walk and the same road was transformed into a huge party. Live music, LED lights, food and people were everywhere. Few observations as the summary of the trip:
  • Looking at all the affluence and energy, I have to say that the society in general seems to be doing well, enjoying themselves and is full of hope. I heard that this is the first generation in China that grew up with relative stability and affluence. No wonder they are all excited about the future.
  • Women: I feel Chinese women are strong, assertive, self confident and are more equal to men than in any other society I have seen. They are everywhere. They travel alone, in groups of women and with men. They wear elegant and practical clothing, they are never fat and they do not smoke. (Many young men smoke.) Interestingly, the government has no warnings on packages and no advertising about its ill effects.
  • Young People: Young people are everywhere. I am not sure where the old folks disappeared, but this is a society of young people. Young people have their heads stuck in the cell phones all the time and everywhere. They are not as polite as they used to be (maybe because they are not aware of their surroundings).
  • Food: GOOD is the word. Fresh fruits and vegetables are everywhere. Plenty of seafood and pork. People eat all sorts of stuff and waste just the same amount. Unfortunately, big M and KFC are everywhere too.
  • Language: It is very hard to find someone who understands English enough to give you simple directions - not even in the big hotels. If you come here, bring the translator and be prepared for some adventure.
  • Countryside is beautiful and so is the infrastructure. Roads are as good or better than USA and plenty of busses, trains and other transportation are available. Cities are big, crowded, but have unique things to do and see. They have very rich history and culture. But, if you plan to travel within China, make sure you know how to squat. :-)
With this I will stop my ramblings. But the blog is not done yet. If you are reading along, please read my last blog from USA. It may take me a day or two to write it but it will be a worthwhile read.

Good night and wish me a safe journey back home.
























90-year-old Grandaunty’s birthday and the beginning of the return journey

The announcement is saying, “Ladies and Gentlemen, Flight 5566 is delayed due to airplane confusion, stay around for further notice”

We are at the Xiamen airport waiting to get to Shanghai. The airport id new, modern, has OLED TVs and sparkling clean glass windows.


Stampede of Street Vendors running away from the Police


Birds, flowers and Fruits remind me of childhood in India

The morning and the day were spent taking the ferry back to Xiamen and then having a feast for Grandaunty’s 90th birthday. All the relatives gathered at the restaurant and the feast included oysters, sea worms, octopus, sea cucumber, stingrays and other stuff that I did not dare to ask about. The food, cake and company were all wonderful. We had to rush out because I did not want to be late. But, here we are just waiting. . .


Grandaunty's 90th Birthday


Gloria found Starbucks :-)

Greenie’s family’s hospitality has been very gratifying. Her cousin Sofia planned everything and the rest of the family has been running around taking care of us. (And Greenie is exhausted, grumpy and sleeping :-D)




Window cleaning

10pm:
We are in Shanghai. You know you have been hanging out in a city for too long, when the hotel receptionist recognizes you and gives you the same room as the week before. :-) It has been a long day, but coming back here feels like coming back home. We had a great time in Xiamen and Gulangyu, but it is time to head back home…this is the first step towards home.




























Thursday, June 18, 2015

Piano Island, Sun Rise Rock and land of hot sauna

We are still in Gulangyu. We hiked at 5 am to see the sun rise from the top of the rock called Sunrise Rock. We thought we will beat the crowd and the heat, but we were wrong on both accounts. Still, it was beautiful.

5 am climb to the Rock

Sunrise from the rock, and crowd of people

Workers in the morning

After the hiking adventure, we meandered through a seaside park, dipping our feet in the water.  Water is warm, but the sun is even warmer here. I think ocean play is out. L

A fly on Buddha's eye :-)


Island view from a garden

Nine caves and island view

Piano Museum is the only Piano museum in China. This tiny island produced many famous pianists since the 1800’s. The first (Chinese) woman pianist, composer, director was born here, and went to the USA two times. There were many others who followed her. There is a big collection of old and unique pianos here dating back to the 1700’s.

Piano from the Museum: Notice the candle stands built in (no electricity then)

More colonial buildings

Kids practicing English with Don and Jagdish

Home of a famous writer (He wrote: "A moment in Peking" before WW1)

We saw a live performance on an over 200-year-old grand Piano and then met up with Sofia’s friend, who lives here. She took us to this grand mansion where her grandmother was married and we met the owner. The owner is a very simple looking, old woman who was very nice to us, offering tea etc.

Unfortunately, young tourists from the Chinese mainland overrun the island. Kids have finished the infamous GOWKOW exam (this nationwide exam determines what colleges they can go to and basically what jobs they will get) and are all vacationing on this island. That’s how it seems anyway. We talked to a few of them and they are all happy that their exams are over.

After a much needed afternoon nap, we wandered around the island a little more. The American consulate (old one) is the biggest property here and is totally abandoned.

In the evening we attended a free, delightful concert. The concert is conducted daily by the music school students and was a combination of western as well as Chinese instruments and music.

In the two days we’ve been here, we have become familiar enough with the island that we walked back by ourselves in the dark.  I think, only in China, a woman can wander around in the dark without much fear and without knowing the language.